Your water heater is in all probability the most significant element of your homes plumbing technique. A adequately maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or much more. But, a heater not adequately maintained can fail in 4 to six years. The condition of the drinking water in your location and the location of the heater in your dwelling are out of your manage, but proper maintenance of the heater and your plumbing method is crucial to heater longevity and safety.
This post gives you a list of products to verify for both tank variety and tankless water heaters. As you go via the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capacity, get a qualified, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electrical energy!
Tank Form Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent must be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent really should go usually “up and out” the ceiling.
Where is passes through the exterior wall, the vent really should be double-walled.
Vent sections need to be screwed collectively with a minimum 3 screws per section.
Note: Undesirable vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Stress Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is designed to stop the heater from exploding if the water stress or temperature exceeds safe limits.
Pull up the manage on the valve and water should flow out and quit when you let go of the manage.
The T&P valve has a drain line that should go down to about 6″ from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your house.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a undesirable T&P valve, high water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Stress (All Water Heaters)
Water pressure more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can harm heaters and your piping. water heater replacement near me can also harm plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: One giveaway that your have higher water pressure is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Control
Inspect the heater temperature control dial to insure its set at the appropriate water temperature.
The ideal water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Something above 120° Fahrenheit tremendously increases scalding threat, power use, and sediment create-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve control to “pilot position”.
Remove the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve manage back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber indicates drafting problems, combustion challenges, fume troubles, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make certain the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The standard pedestal will retain the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater could have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the have to have for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it must have a drain pan.
The drain pan need to be plumbed to the outside of your dwelling.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outdoors.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the high quality of the air is important.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored near a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to stop rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to protect the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode over time and get utilized up by way of an electrolytic approach.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, must be completed by a educated, experienced service technician.
Sediment Create-up-Sediment is produced when challenging water is heated. The build-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can lead to the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open verify valves, and result in the recirculating pump to stick until it burns out. Sediment develop-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is caused by compact amounts of water below the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment construct-up can reduce the energy efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater manufacturers suggest flushing the complete unit each six months to 1 year depending upon the water good quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit on a regular basis removes any mineral deposits (usually calcium or lime) that may well have constructed up inside the boilers. Companies advise using a utility pump to circulate 3 or 4 gallons of vinegar or a different low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.